It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change. -- Charles Darwin

25 March 2007

Tryavna, Bulgaria





Tryavna is a town preferred by tourists for its clean mountain air and unique Renaissance architecture.

We stayed in an old house (see picture with dog) in a village 2km up the mountain from Tryanva, where it was so quiet and the air so clean. In the night we stayed warm by lighting wood-fire stoves in our rooms. Mariana and I were completely incompetent at setting fire to our stoves so we had to call in help from her husband, Llucho, and their dog, Bats (cutie in the picture, a mix of doberman and german shepard)


Bats slept with me in my bed and it reminded me of snuggling with Mahynoor's dog, Plato, in Michigan! I miss Plato :(

Dogs are the cutest.




saturday afternoon looking out my bedroom window in sofia





24 March 2007

brian, chris and gare in toledo
i miss u


Our friend Bruce is visiting us from Jakarta so we decided to take him to our favourite local Turkish restaurant for dinner last night.

It's right around the corner from our apartment and Andy and I are going there a lot for the Efes Pilsner, which we usually bring home a few extras for the apartment (hence the plastic pink bag on the table.)


later back in the apartment, andy and bruce are looking at our ever-so-popular book on the best 100 cities in the world to visit. of course they are shocked and appalled that amman is listed before kuala lumpur :)






eagle's eye view in mojito





Adventurous living through travel keeps me passionate about life.



My brother Brian was recently contacted by his former graduate program at Notre Dame (the Alliance for Catholic Education--ACE) to be featured in the quarterly newsletter. See the link below, scroll to "ACE 10", and click on his name for the profile and interview. My favourite line from the interview is "Adventurous living through travel keeps me passionate about life. "

http://acefellowship.googlepages.com/aceclassprofiles

GARYPALOOZA





as promised, here are some pics from the rockin' toledo palooza that came after "Chrisfest"... sadly i wasn't there to partake in the festivities, but we can all live vicariously through some of the pictures from the night...

23 March 2007

I asked my brothers to send me pictures of Garypalooza.....an event that occurred in Toledo, Ohio in January involving my family, friends, a lot of margaritas....unfortunately i wasn't there but i heard so much hype afterward and didn't see any pics that i was starting to wonder if it was in fact a myth entirely....

in any case, here is the first pic we've seen from Garepalooza...and more to come...


in the meantime, jeff sent us this pic titled "arabic jeff"......from when we were in bahrain last year (baaaaaaahhhhrraaaaaaiiinnnnn eeyyyyeeaaaaa)



21 March 2007

Melnik, Bulgaria

In February we went to Melnik for a weekend, a pristine little village best known for its wine in the south of Bulgaria near the border with Greece. Abby and I took the bus from Sofia and there in Melnik we met Andy and his friend Alasdair, who was visiting from Hamburg. Such a great weekend.
Here we are sitting at one of the world's best hidden secrets: the bar of six fingers. as you can guess, the owner has six fingers and the bar is perched on the mountain overlooking the town of Melnik.


sampling Melnik's famous wine



Abby and I kept ourselves occupied on the bus from Sofia to Melnik



We had fun exploring Sofia before we left for the weekend


YOU ARE NOT ALONE

While Abby was here visiting we went to rally in the center of Sofia to support the Bulgarian nurses in Libya.

Andy, our editor here wrote a story about their cause:

LATEST BRIEFING

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Bulgaria: The Benghazi Six

19 January 2007

Bulgaria entered the New Year united behind the campaign “You Are Not Alone” to free five Bulgarian nurses sentenced to death in Libya. Bulgarian Minister of Foreign Affairs and Deputy Prime Minister Ivailo Kalfin, told OBG that “we [the government] are going to focus on the case as our priority” and added that he was “very grateful” for the support of the international community in the battle to free the nurses.

The nurses and a Palestinian doctor, whom overwhelming scientific evidence indicates are innocent, have been languishing in Libyan prisons since February 1999 under charges of deliberately infecting more than 400 hospitalised children with the HIV virus.

“The court has refused to take into account extensive scientific evidence showing that the tragedy of Benghazi has nothing to do with the Bulgarian nurses,” Kalfin told OBG in an exclusive interview. “There is an expectation that the Libyan judicial system will adhere to international standards.” He also re-emphasised Bulgaria’s sympathy for the infected children, saying, “we remain in solidarity with the children – it is a tragedy for them.”

The medics, known as the “Benghazi Six” after the Libyan city in which the hospital is located, were first tried between 2000 and 2002, when the case was rejected. They were then convicted and sentenced to death in 2004, but Libya's Supreme Court ordered a retrial. On December 19, they were sentenced to death in a third trial. Two of the Bulgarians had previously confessed, allegedly after torture, but later rescinded their confessions.

The defence team will now take the case back to the Supreme Court, whose decision will be final.

The case has attracted international attention over the past seven years, with US President George W Bush saying “I want them free”, and the passing of the capital sentence bringing it to the front of the news agenda again.

Prosecutors claimed that the medics deliberately injected children with HIV-infected blood during secret experiments to find a cure for AIDS. Fifty-two of the children have since died, while the remaining 374 are being treated at centres in France and Italy.

Reports by several influential bodies have concluded that the nurses did not deliberately inject the children with HIV. In January 1999, the World Health Organisation reported that HIV transmission was caused by poor hygiene practices with regards to catheters and syringes. In September 2003, an investigation by microbiologists Professor Luc Montagnier and Professor Vittorio Colizzi, appointed by the Libyan government, concluded that the first HIV infection was in April 1997, before the Bulgarian nurses had arrived in the country. The report stated that,“there is no evidence that correlates infections with the presence of the Bulgarian staff…no evidence has been found for a deliberate injection of HIV contaminated material.”

In November 2005, the British press reported that Libyan President Muammar Gaddafi would order the release of the Benghazi Six in exchange for the return to Libya of convicted Pan-Am Flight 103 (Lockerbie) bomber Abdelbaset Ali Mohmed Al Megrahi, who is currently serving a life sentence in the UK for 270 counts of murder, as well as “compensation” estimated at $2.7bn.

The EU, together with the US and Bulgaria (prior to the country’s EU accession), have set up a fund to help the children, but refuse to link this to the supposed “guilt” of the medics.

Some have suggested that the medics were being held as “bargaining counters” or even “hostages” by the Libyan authorities at a delicate time in the country’s relations with the EU and the US. Gaddafi’s recent shift to a more pro-Western stance since the nurses’ arrest, and Libya’s desire to be in the Barcelona trade agreement with the EU means that Libya has a lot to lose.

On Tuesday, Kalfin and US Ambassador to Sofia John Beyrle met and agreed that there was no connection between the Lockerbie case and the HIV trial. Local press reported that the leaders concurred “at this stage” that it was “unacceptable” to talk of an exchange of prisoners. Beyrle reiterated the US’s support for the medics as a “good ally” of Bulgaria.

Georgi Gotev, the deputy chief editor of Bulgarian newspaper Standart, which has been leading the “You Are Not Alone” campaign, told OBG that he hoped the new publicity of the case would help set the medics free. “I have been following and writing extensively on the case for seven years now, and I have some optimism that with EU membership, we will maybe have more chance of influencing Tripoli. On the public opinion level, we need to raise awareness; the campaign should be international. We need every single public person to speak up for putting an end to this hostage-taking.”

The mood in Sofia is defiant and even positive, as most seem to believe that it is only a matter of time before the nurses are released.

view from our apartment balcony

Gotta love the view of Vitosha mountain in the background!


It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most
intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

18 March 2007

Abby's visit

My girl Abby came to visit us in Bulgaria! She is also working for OBG in Amman, Jordan. She's my girl. We met on an airplane three years en route to El Calafate, Patagonia, from Buenos Aires and have been friends ever since!

15 March 2007

BEWARE....


Beware of the Ides of March!
Click here for more info...........

Ukraine Trip



In January I took a weekend vakay to Kyiv to visit my long lost brother jefe who I see once a year if I'm lucky :)

Needless to say, it had been three years since my last visit to Ukraine and we had a fantastic time! After now having lived in Eastern Europe for a year, my perspective has changed and I was truly able to appreciate the charm of "rough and ready" Ukraine (eeyeeeeaaaaaaaa)!

The last time I was in Ukraine I visited Kyiv, Ternopil and Lyiv. The trip took place during the summer with my parents after just having returned to the U.S. from living in Buenos Aires, and I was culturally confused and shocked to say the least.

During this most recent visit I was much more receptive to Kyiv customs and living and truly enjoyed my time there. I look forward to revisiting lovely Ukraine in the future.

Certainly a weekend spent in a capital city can not possibly do justice to the charms of a country, particualarly to a country as diverse and beautiful as Ukraine. From my own experience living in Sofia, I know that the best parts of Bulgaria are the undiscovered secrets that lie in the pristine countryside and little mountain villages throughout the country. For what it's worth, though, i did appreciate the magic of Kyiv and the city life......as it were....



view going into the metro in Kyiv....very steep, deep-underground, and well-preserved; almost like a museum


la vida de noche en Kyiv

Sunday in a pub with Jeff and Patrick (aka Matt Damon's long lost twin)


el jefe.


Cam and Wincy. Reinsteiken!

09 March 2007

The Sofia Echo....Bulgaria's Leading English Language Newspaper

Click on the link below to see the interview published in last week's edition of the Sofia Echo.

Let me know what you think :)
Sofia_Echo_23Febinterview.jpg

08 March 2007

18th February

i've just arrived back in Sofia after a weekend snowboarding in Bez Bog, a peak in the Pirin Mountains. We woke up on Saturday morning at the ungodly hour of 6am and drove 2.5 hours to our destination. On the way we passed through Bansko, the famous Bulgarian ski town that now looks more like a horrendous construction site than a place to enjoy nature and the slopes.....and we made our way to our little rustic destination about 15 km from there.

We took two, two-person chairlifts (old school style) to the top of the mountain where there was a single lodge. We were a group of twelve (Andy and I being the only foreigners thrown in the mix). When we arrived at the lodge we were informed that it was fully booked but my assertive and fabulous Bulgarian friend Iskra managed to convince them to find a place for us. The result: we all shared a room at the very top floor of the lodge!

I decided to try snowboarding for the first time, and rented my equipment from the sole hut at the base of the hill offering surprisingly decent skis and a few snowboards. oooooohhhh man did I get my a** kicked on the mountain!!!

By 4pm when the lifts closed, I was very much deserving of the après-ski that followed! Our friend Mitko, had just returned from a trip to Belgrade, and
offered to us Serbian Rakia to kick off the après hour. Fyi, Bulgarian Rakia is home-made "grappa" and quite strong..... compared to the Serbian stuff, it could easily pass for water. yiiikkessss!!!

We all conjured in a little smoky room on the first floor of the lodge, warmed by the heat of our bodies and the fireplace. The room filled up pretty quickly with other snow covered and battered soldiers from the mountain and in no time we were engaged in a full-on Balkan party.

After a few hours, hungry stomachs called, and we all trudged through the snow to a little shack behind the lodge referred to in Bulgarian as a "china house". To enter,
you had to push back the heavy hanging woven blanket to step into the dark, wooden basement-feeling hut. AWESOME. We sat at our log table and ate traditional and delicious Bulgarian meats, salads, and pickled veggies and drank homemade wine. After a little while, the party from the après bar (aka everyone else who was staying at the lodge) packed into the china house. Again, a full-throttle party had begun and people were toasting to everyone and everything and we engaged in the horo dance(see previous blog posting for reference) round and round in circles to traditional Bulgarian music.

the party continued well into the night and later transferred back to the lodge where there was a basement disko!!! (fyi, the lodge is not particularly large. it might be able to hold 60 people, tops. but, it did manage to have all the facilities for a fantastic ski weekend!) The basement disko was rocking and again, after a lot of rock and roll, tradition Bulgarian music was favoured to the other stuff, and it started to blast from the speakers, and around and around we danced in circles, doing several variations of the horo until no one had any strength left....

after such an energetic saturday, i woke up this morning pretty sore, particularly from falling 101 times on the mountain

....needless to say, snowboarding today was quite the challenge!

now i sleep.